Madurai: Through the ages

Madurai is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Tamil Nadu and was the historic seat of the Pandyas. It is mentioned in the Sangam-era epic Silappadikaram (dating back to traditions from 300 BC). Home to the world-famous Meenakshi Amman Temple, the city has a tumultuous history. Here is a short look at how Madurai changed hands from 1000 AD onwards.

The Later Pandyas: c. 1250

After a period of Chola dominance, the Pandyas returned to power in Madurai. This era is known as the "Later Pandya" period. If you’ve seen the movie Aayirathil Oruvan, it is set during this fascinating time (though it is a fictional story). The movie is pretty cool and is based on the fact that the last Chola King was supposed to have just disappeared into the forest. In my coin collection, you can see coins issued by the Later Pandyas here.

The Madurai Sultanate: 1335–1375

In the early 14th century, the Delhi Sultanate sent forces south to plunder wealthy temple cities. They left behind governors who were initially required to pay taxes to Delhi. However, the Governor of Madurai eventually declared independence, forming the Madurai Sultanate. You can see a coin issued by the Sultanate here.

There is a legendary story from this era regarding the Meenakshi Temple. To protect the sacred site, priests reportedly walled up the main Siva Lingam and installed a duplicate in its place. The raiding army desecrated the "fake" Lingam, which can still be seen today as an exhibit within the temple complex.

Nayakas as Vijayanagara Governors: 1400–1565

The Vijayanagara army eventually drove out the Sultanate, re-establishing Hindu rule over the city. Initially, they restored the Pandyas as vassals, who ruled for the next century. However, around 1529, the Krishnadevaraya realized the Pandya kings could no longer maintain order or pay tribute. He sent a loyal general to serve as the Nayaka (Governor) of Madurai. You can see Vijayanagara-era coins here.

The Nayaka Dynasty: 1565–1736

Following the defeat of the Vijayanagara Empire by the Deccan Sultanates at the Battle of Talikota in 1565, the Nayakas declared independence. This launched the Madurai Nayak dynasty, which ruled for nearly 200 years. The most famous ruler was Thirumalai Nayak; his grand palace still stands in Madurai, and he is responsible for rebuilding large portions of the Meenakshi Temple. You can see coins from the Madurai Nayaka dynasty here.

The Nayakas frequently moved their capital between Madurai and Tiruchirappalli (Trichy), the latter of which is famous for its Rockfort. Around this time, the Sethupathis of Ramnad declared independence from Madurai, with Sivagangai later emerging as an offshoot of Ramnad. You can see their coins here.

A Century of Conflict: 1736–1801

The mid-18th century was a chaotic period. After the death of the last Nayaka king, the regent Queen Meenakshi faced internal rebellion. She sought help from Chanda Sahib, the nephew of the Nawab of Arcot. Chanda Sahib famously betrayed her; after taking a sacred oath on a "fake" Quran (actually a brick wrapped in cloth), he seized Madurai and imprisoned the Queen. You can see coins from the Arcot Nawabs here.

The Marathas intervened in 1741, capturing Chanda Sahib and holding him prisoner for seven years until a massive ransom was paid. The Marathas briefly held Madurai and Trichy until 1743, when the Nizam of Hyderabad arrived with a massive force. He negotiated a Maratha withdrawal and returned the region to his vassal, the Nawab of Arcot.

This period is covered in Rajmohan Gandhi’s excellent book on South India from 1600-1847

British Rule: 1801–1947

By the end of the Carnatic Wars, the Nawab of Arcot (Wallajah) was deeply in debt to the British for their military support. Through the Carnatic Treaty of 1801, he ceded Madurai and the Trichy fort to the East India Company. This marked the end of local sovereign rule. The East India Company issued coins from Trichy mints that resembled local copper coins, which can be found here.